A sailor’s plans are written in sand at low tide, the saying goes, and so it was with us this past week or so. We lingered an extra day in Rock Sound and then opted to enter the Exumas at Highbourne Cut.
We were aiming to minimize rolliness by pointing to Highbourne instead of Warderick Wells, as we expected the waves would be hitting Vinyasa full on the beam on the tack to Warderick. As it was, the short interval 4-6 foot waves slapping Vinyasa’s aft quarter made for a rather uncomfortable ride.
We squeaked through Highbourne Cut at slack tide, avoiding the dreaded breaking waves that arise when the current runs against the wind, and made it to Shroud Cay shortly after sunset where we grabbed a mooring ball in the fading light.
Our first visit to Shroud Cay, on the northern edge of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, was delightful. We dinghied through the mangroves enjoying the sight of so many turtles swimming below us in the clear, turquoise water, and explored deserted beaches. Paddle-boarding at sunrise was also lots of fun.
After two nights at Shroud, we had a sweet motorsail to Black Point. We dinghied to the Emerald Sunset View for dinner, where we were reminded of the common in the Bahamas need to “reserve your dish” if you’d like the entree of the day rather than a cheeseburger or chicken sandwich.
The next morning we motorsailed to Galliott Cay. We’d anchored there once in 2020, shortly before sunset, and we moved on early the next morning leaving Allan longing for time in the water. This time we had an afternoon to fill but the chop kicked up by the wind and an ebb current ruled out fishing on a nearby reef.
The forecast called for easterly wind, so we exited the Galliot Cut at slack tide the next morning aiming for George Town. Alas, the wind shifted sooner than expected to the southeast making for another uncomfortable ride. We were happy to anchor in George Town’s calm harbor by mid-afternoon, after a few tries to find a comfortable spot among the 300 or so boats tucked into its anchorages.
We caught up over sundowners with friends aboard SV Motu that evening, glad for the chance to see them before they sailed south the next morning, and hosted friends from SV Cara on Vinyasa for sundowners the next day.
George Town is known for its active cruiser community, with daily activities such as aqua aerobics, yoga, beach volleyball, and more announced on the morning net on VHF channel 72.
We will be at anchor here until some friends fly in from Florida, after which we hope the wind will cooperate for another foray north back to the Land and Sea Park. More about that next time!