Week 14: Black Point, Big Majors, and Staniel Cay

The sky was forebodingly gray as we left Warderick Wells on Sunday morning, and with 20 knots of wind on Vinyasa’s beam we made way at a nice clip on reefed sails.

We had planned to stop and snorkel in Cambridge Cay, near the park’s southern boundary, but the iffy weather, our eagerness to dispose of the trash we’d accumulated during our six nights in the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park, and the lure of strong cell service to sort out the shipment of an alternator for our generator pushed us further south to Black Point settlement on Great Guana Cay.

The anchorage and government dock at Black Point.

Some cruisers love Black Point, and I had hoped we would too, but that wasn’t the case. Maybe it was the loud street brawl that got underway as soon as we settled ourselves in for lunch on the deck at Lorraine’s Cafe. We were looking forward to a meal or two off the boat but the two restaurants we tried were disappointing, compared to Rock Sound or Spanish Wells.

The view is beautiful at the Sunset View Restaurant in Black Point.

We’d also hoped to get some groceries, but the selection was extremely limited. We did score two loaves of freshly baked coconut bread at a friendly woman’s house; ask for directions at the laundromat.

After two nights, we were ready to hoist anchor and sail north to Big Majors, which we had bypassed after leaving the Exuma Park.

Big Majors is a lovely spot, and more importantly, it’s close to Staniel Cay Yacht Club where our alternator was being shipped from Ft. Lauderdale.

We’d skipped by Big Majors on our way south because it’s often crowded with anchored cruising boats plus tourist boats pulling in to see the pigs who live on the beach and sometimes swim for handouts.

Pigs and plovers on the beach at big Majors.
A swimming pig at Big Majors.
Side-stepping one of the pigs on the beach, as they are known to bite…

We were happy to see our former Warderick Wells neighbors, Denita and Paul on SV Dreamer, in the Big Majors anchorage, and delighted to spend an evening aboard their lovely Morgan 46 before they headed north the next day.

On Wednesday afternoon we eagerly watched the mailboat bearing fresh supplies pull into Staniel Cay, and dinghied over first thing the next morning to provision at the two small grocery stores.

This colorful sign caught our eye as we walked to the Blue and Pink grocery stores on Staniel Cay.

Fresh produce, basic as the selection may be, was never as appreciated when we could stroll into a U.S. supermarket. We were thrilled to find romaine lettuce, cabbage, cherry tomatoes, yellow and red onions, celery, broccoli, apples and oranges.

To make the longish morning dinghy ride even better, our alternator had arrived! By mid-afternoon, Allan had it in place and our generator was back in business.

Today we aim south towards George Town. More about that, next week.